The dried leaves sweet-smelling, a touch earthy and hay-like are solvent extracted from the plant. Penhaligons Eau de Cologne And no wonder, because it comes from the intestines of sperm whales. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir These will ban widely-used ingredients . Citron is French for lemon. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). Givenchy Ysatis (Dont worry: we wont test you.) Comme des Garons Sequoia Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. Those frond-like leaves evoke the forest, and its damp, earthy, humus-rich floor but actually, its the rhizomes (gnarly roots) from which the ferns essential oil is extracted, using volatile solvents. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. In the same way that a touch of salt brings a caramel alive, saltiness can play against sweet notes like chocolate, praline and cream, as an almost show-stopping contrast. Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Even more confusingly, the perfume ingredient doesnt even come from amber itself that time-hardened resin of Pinus succinifera, which is often shaped into jewellery. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. ), Revlon Charlie Blue (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. Woods of Windsor Lavender Fern gives a cool, damp, sweet and woody feel to a fragrance like walking into the embrace of a shady spot. But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple I love to cook with cinnamon. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Long-lasting, come-hither, velvety: it really is complex and (virtually) a fragrance in its own right. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. "Smells like forest bathing to me.". Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. The sense of smell is closely linked with memory, and can trigger a recollection of particular moments from the past - what was the last memory a fragrance stirred for you? ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. And the rest, as they say, is history. Caron Tabac Blond Serge Lutens Bas de Soie According to predictions, rhubarb is set to become even more of a key ingredient in future fragrance trends Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme (In aromatherapy, its a wake-up oil.) Prada Infusion dIris Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though, Goutal Gardenia-Passion And in a fragrance? The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. Este Lauder Knowing Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. Jo MaloneGrapefruit Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. It is a skill not many brands have managed to perfect, but Jo Malone has nailed it. Vetiveria zizanoides grows like crazy in marshy places and riverbanks in places that are drenched by high annual rainfall: countries like India, Brazil, Malaysia and the West Indies (Haitian vetiver is probably the most famous of its type). The types mainly grown for fragrance are Lavandula angustifolia (or Lavandula officinalis), Lavandula latifolia, or the more camphor-y Lavandula stoechas, which smells more like rosemary. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). When it is fresh, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul. Memo Manoa The Italian term for neroli is zagara. But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta BRAND'S VALUE FOR MONEY: 9/10 BRAND SCORE: A. Both were among the most popular perfume ingredients of ancient times, referred to as far back as ancient Egyptian unguent recipes. Clinique Happy (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) It then conjures up jasmine and orange blossom, and goes beautifully with green notes, and other floral ingredients. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. Just like daisies, the yellow flowers open at daybreak, and bed down for the night. LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. Versace Crystal Noir. (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Though production of these colognes and perfumes are mostly abroad, the Philippines is a great source of supply for the most common scents the world's most popular brands use. Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Fragonard Citron A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Halston Woman Amber Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. If you would like to find the specific fragrance ingredients for a P&G product in the U.S. or Canada, please visit the brand website (search for brands here) or go to SmartLabel.. We are providing a list of fragrance ingredients we do not use below. Floris China Rose Caron Nocturnes Learn about our 4 - step product safety process. Burberry Buberry Women The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Goutal Paris Rose Absolue I am convinced that I can detect a hidden note of car exhaust, modern car, there. In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Este Lauder Sensuous We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Iso E Super is very popular in fragrance compositions, even though the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has rationed its use in a formula, because of its potentially sensitising/allergenic effects. (Actually, it tastes like cinnamon too.) Guerlain Cuit Beluga Need to know: Their perfumes contain concentrates from a variety of plant species, including pineapple, verbena, oakmoss, and apple, as well as woody notes like sandalwood, tonka, and bergamot. Petit-what? Andrea Maack Smart It can smell aromatic or woody, a little dry, earthy and spicy. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Amouroud Silk Route Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Sweet, juicy, peachily honey-like: nectarines have been dripping their bright fruitiness over quite a few compositions, of late, riding on the popularity of fruity-florals. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Azzaro Baccarat Rouge 540 Bath & Body Works Black Opium Burberry Bvlgari. Penhaligon's Bluebell. (Its also used in vermouth.) (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) Something else to slip into your handbag, then: different dried fruits are now recreated in perfumery fantasy ingredients (i.e. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. (A tradition wed quite like to see revived!). But in a perfume? Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Lancme O de Lancme Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Calvin Klein Escape Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). Crabtree & Evelyn Lily In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. Jo Malone London Incense & Cedrat A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin Penhaligons Orange Blossom You may also get hints of violet. Want an exclusive offer? Davidoff Cool Water Woman Gucci Guilty Intense Clive Christian V for Women It looks like cinnamon. Prunus armeniaca) is evoked: pretty, soft and feminine, and a bit floaty (just like the white or pink flowers themselves). GivenchyXeryus Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. An Asian evergreen tree with fragrant flowers, the oil of which is used in expensive floral perfumes. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. By Kilian Back to Black M.Micallef Ylang in Gold An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. A gum resin that is produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. GoutalQuel Amour Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. This flowering shrub pulses out its potent scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa. Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Waxy, grapefruity. Guerlain Chamade Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Review of Chanel No. Tom Ford Private Blend Mandarino Di Amalfi Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. Plus entry to win $500 in store credit. Chanel Cristalle Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Boucheron Boucheron Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. 5. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Fragonard Fragonard Amouage Ciel Pour Femme Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. Notes reminiscent of this favourite beverage from the dried leaves of Camellia sinensis (seen in our photo growing on plantation slopes) - have made their way into quite a few sheer, uplifting fragrance creations in recent years, a trend kickstarted by Bulgaris Eau Parfume au Th Vert. Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. Asafoetida comes from the dried taproot of Ferula asafoetida note the word foetid in the name, because it really does honk: strong and sulphurous, its known variously as devils dung, stinking dung, or (charmingly) in French, merde de diable (devils poo). Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. A mighty tree, a mighty base note: this giant redwood member of the cypress family, which grows for thousands of years, is becoming popular in mens fragrances and a handful of womens, for its dry earthiness.
